The 1998 Gran Reserva 904 is a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano aged in American cask for four years. It has a very fine nose with notes of dried honey, cloves, raisin and wild heather that blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of orange peel on the entry. It has an effortless sense of harmony and poise, with a crisp tense finish and suffused with a sorbet-like freshness. It just dances across the palate, a memorable Rioja with style and panache. Drink now-2030.
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La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 1998 750ml
Rated 95 by Wine Advocate
The 1998 Gran Reserva 904 is a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano aged in American cask for four years. It has a very fine nose with notes of dried honey, cloves, raisin and wild heather that blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of orange peel on the entry. It has an effortless sense of harmony and poise, with a crisp tense finish and suffused with a sorbet-like freshness. It just dances across the palate, a memorable Rioja with style and panache. Drink now-2030.
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Bright red with an amber rim. Pungent, expansive scents of dried red fruits, potpourri, vanilla and pipe tobacco, with a spicy overtone. The silky palate offers penetrating redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors sweetened by notes of vanilla and mocha. Finishes smooth and long, with very soft tannins and lingering floral notes. Ready to drink but there's very good depth here, suggesting (along with this wine's track record) that it will reward further patience. I also had the chance to re-try the outstanding 2001 Vina Ardanza, which is aging at a snail's pace and really needs more time for the oak to fully integrate with its fruit. Right now the vanilla character is dominating but there's obviously excellent material underneath it.
The delightful ruby red colour of this Gran Reserva is indicative of its long and careful cask ageing. The brilliance of the wine allows one to appreciate its deep colour -more intense than in previous vintages- that follows the bodega's philosophy of releasing onto the market, wines with greater structure. The aroma develops and intensifies the longer the bottle is open. It is a very round and complete wine, hard to describe for the complexity of its aromas. The high level of extract and balancing touch of glycerin give the wine a silkiness on the palate. Excellent length, with a robust finish and significant but refined tannins.