Chenin Blanc Ice Wine Mezcal Primitivo
Originating in France yet now grown in many parts of the New World, Chenin Blanc is one of the most versatile and highly regarded white wine grape varietals on earth. These green skinned grapes hold a relatively high acid content, and as such can be used for making still white wines of exceptional quality, as well as superb sparkling wines (such as the Crémant wines of the Loire Valley) and extremely aromatic dessert wines. Their natural transparency means that they are a fine grape for expressing their terroir in the bottle, and winemakers often experiment with this varietal to coax unusual and intense flavors from the grapes, such as allowing the development of noble rot on the fruit in order to make sweet and viscous wines of a unique character.
Although commonly confused with Tequila, Mexico’s other signature spirit, Mezcal, has its own set of unique characteristics which set it apart. Mezcal is made from the agave plant, although not the blue agave most commonly associated with Tequila production. This drink hails from the arid southern Mexican region of Oaxaca, where it has been made for generations according to traditional recipes and methods, and continues to be extremely popular worldwide today.
One of the defining features of quality Mezcal is its pungent smokiness, a heady aroma which reminds us of campfires and desert nights. This comes from the fact that the pinas (the fruit body) of the agave used in its production are slow cooked in wood fired ovens, before being distilled into a spirit. Mezcal is traditionally bottled with a worm - why? Nobody really seems to know for sure, but this unique drink continues to attract attention and convert new fans thanks to its authenticity, unique flavor and supposed health benefits. It is split into the same categories as Tequila; blanco, reposado and anejo, and although it is often used as a mixer in cocktails, it is best enjoyed straight and uncomplicated, allowing its beautiful and subtle characteristics to shine.
As with many European grape varietals, there is some debate regarding the precise origins of the Primitivo grape. Most people now agree that it probably came from Croatia, where it is still used widely in the production of red wine, and it known as Tribidrag. However, today it is a grape most commonly associated with the powerful red wines of Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot, where the intense sunshine and brisk Mediterranean breezes produce grapes of remarkable character and balance. Primitivo is a dark grape, known for producing intense, inky, highly tannic wines, most notably the naturally sweet Dolce Naturale and the heavy and complex Primitivo di Manduria wines. Primitivo tends to be naturally very high in both tannin and alcohol, making it ideal for both barrel and cellar ageing, which brings out its more rounded and interesting features.
Primitivo is not the easiest grape to grow or manage, and it has had something of a difficult century. Indeed, by the 1990s, there was little interest in Puglian wines in general, and winemakers were neglecting their Primitivo vineyards and looking to other, more commercially viable varietals. However, the last decade has seen this grape come well and truly back into fashion, with new techniques and a heightened interest in native Italian grape varietals bringing Primitivo back into the spotlight. It is now widely loved for its intensity and ability to be paired with strongly flavored foods.